Hike on Table Mountain.  Smuts

Track.

Enjoy a guided hike on Table Mountain with Ridgway Ramblers. We will ensure that your hike on Table Mountain is the highlight of your holiday.

Smuts Track is a classic Table Mountain route. Named after Jan Christiaan Smuts (1870-1950) a former prime minister of South Africa who was reputed to regularly walk this trail until well into his 70′s. It is a longish day hike and takes you from Kirstenbosch Gardens and finishes on Tafelberg Road. You therefore need to arrange for someone to pick you up the end of the walk.

You start in Kirstenbosch gardens and ascend onto the back table via Skeleton Gorge. This route is spectacularly beautiful. It is a deep gorge lined with indigenous trees as it follows a small stream. There are a few ladders to be negotiated as well as a few hundred metres of the path where you are actually walking in the stream bed.

It should take you around 2 hours to get to the top of the gorge. Here you can enjoy a break in the last shade of the day. Here a number of paths meet so you need to take the path leading to the right (facing towards the middle of the mountain) which leads up for 20 metres before levelling off and heading North along the Eastern side of the mountain.

The view towards False Bay from Smuts Track

After twenty minutes walkking you cross a small stream. This is the window gorge stream which in Febuary is home to a wonderful display of the Red Disa. The path now climbs up the slopes Fernwood Peak. There are a couple of places which involve some very minor scrambling. After 15 minutes you arrive at a flattish area. To your right you can see the wall of the aquaduct. Built in the late 1900′s to steer the water flowing from the peak into the reservoirs. Built of local sandstone the wall blends well with its surroundings. After a short break you head on up the slope. In the distance you will see a pointed pinnacle and a wierdly shaped block. You head straight towards these 2 landmarks.

"dog head" rock marks the paths route

From the Aquaduct it is still a good half hours climb to these markers. Once there ensure you turn around and look at the view. Almost the entire back table now stretches below you. You can see the Hely Hutchinson reservoir and down into Hout Bay. You can also see the Overseers hut, the Constantiaberg, The Muizenberg Mountains and False Bay. It truly is spectacular.

The view is magnificent

 Immediately past “dog head rock”  the path veers sharp right for a few metres before straightening up and heading North again. Here the path is less clear and you need to look for yellow feet on the rocks. Some wooden walkways now lead you over some damp patches and to 2 small rock scrambles. These are your last of the day. After the 2nd one take the small path to your left and after 5 minutes you are at Maclears Beacon.

The highest point on Table Mountain. Maclears Beacon

The hike from the top of Skeleton Gorge should have taken around 2 hours. This is a perfect time to take a lunch break. You then have a number of choices. The first is which route to take to Platteklip Gorge. If it is a windless, clear day I recommend the cliff edge path. This is the path that follows the extreme Northern face of the mountain. The views are spectacular, but there are some places which are close to a sheer 800m drop. This route is not recommended in wet weather or strong winds. The aternative route takes you straight from the beacon along the mountain. The path is not clear so again you follow yellow feet. These 2 paths converge at the top of Platteklip Gorge and here you have another decision. The steep but awe inspiring Platteklip, or the cable car.

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Hiking up Skeleton Gorge

Skeleton Gorge which takes you from Kirstenbosch Gardens onto the Back Table is one of the most popular hikes on Table Mountain. It is beautiful, has lots of shade and a little bit of excitement. Perfect for a hike.

To get there start walking at the Rycroft (top) gate at Kirstenbosch gardens. It is R37 to enter unless you arrive before 7am. It is also possible to start walking at Cecelia forest. Entry here is free but you add about half an hour onto your walk. (at the moment due to forestry activities it may be impossible to start at Cecelia)

The paved road in Kirstenbosch gardens

From top gate walk straight up the path towards the mountain. You are on a paved path for about 15 minutes until you come to a T junction. Take the small path that goes directly up. 5 minutes on this path and you join another road. Go straight across and you’ll find another path heading straight up. Follow this. After 10 minutes you come to a T junction. This is the contour path which leads from Constantia Nek to the cable way station. Turn right onto this path and follow it for 20 minutes. This is a beautiful path which takes you past Nursery ravine and to the bottom of Skeleton Gorge. You cannot miss the gorge it is well sign posted.

Both Nursery Ravine and Skeleton gorge are well signed

Turn up the gorge and be prepared for a slog. The first half of the gorge is a clear path of steps leading up, up and more up. Regular stops to enjoy the peace and quiet and light through the trees are advised. You cannot believe you are only an hour away from a large cosmopolitan city. On your right the Skeleton gorge stream tumbles down. Trickling strongly even in the summer.  

The first half of the gorge is steep and relentless

After about an hour you come to the first of the ladders. These are great to make you forget about your legs and lungs! The ladders are strong and easy to climb. There are 5 ladders in all, some only 2 or 3 rungs in length and they take you up to where the path and the river converge.

The first ladder on Skeleton Gorge

The next stretch of the path is not as clearly marked and at times you need to use your hands to get over larger boulders. It is not really a scramble route and there is no exposure. You do need good shoes though. In several places even in summer the rocks are wet so coming down is not recommended. During the winter it is advisable to avoid this route immediately following rain as it can get very slippery and dangerous.

The trees offer shade for most of the way up Skeleton Gorge

After following the river for about half an hour you come to a platform and a huge rooiels tree. Take a break here. You are about 3/4 of the way up the gorge and have doen the hardest part. From now on the path moves away from the river and after about 20 minutes you rise above the trees. The view of Kirstenbosch, the Southern suburbs and False Bay are great. It is also extremely satisfying to see how far you have climbed.

Emerging from the trees at the top of the gorge

From here you will reach the top of the gorge in about 10 minutes.

Hike along the 12 Apostles of Table

Mountain

The 12 Apostles of Table Mountain are the impressive cliffs that tower over Camps Bay. Tall and imposing they appear assailable only to expert climbers. However there are many routes up the 12 apostles that although steep require no technical skills.

The 12 Apostles of Table Mountain

The name the 12 Apostles is a bit of a mystery as there are more than 12 buttresses along the rocky face none of which bear the name of an apostle! The main buttresses are as follows: Grotto,  Porcupine, Jubilee, Barrier, Valkan, Kasteels, Postern, Wood, Spring, Slangholie, Corridor, Kleinkop, Grootkop.

These 13 buttresses cover the cliffs from the main Western Table as far as Grootkop which is the high rounded peak above Hout Bay. Behind Grootkop there are a further 2 buttresses: Victoria and Grove.

To hike along the entire range would cover a distance of  +/-10km. This may not sound far but would take the average person around 7 hours to complete. This route would take you up Hout Bay corner. This is a steep scramble starting from Suikerbossie restuarant. This is one of the more difficult routes up the 12 Apostles and although no ropes are required it is not a simple hike. Once at the top of the corner (at a height of 700m) the path leads through some of the most remote parts of Table Mountain around the back of Grootkop. The path here although reasonably clear is interupted by several smaller paths leading to other  routes such as Myburghs waterfall and Judas Peak. As this is such a remote area of the mountain it is definitely not recommended without someone who knows the route well.

Heading towards Grootkop on the back of Table Mountain

After about 2 hours you climb around Grootkop and to the main 12 Apostles path. The first route up here would be Oudekraal ravine. This is a steep loose path leading off the Pipe Track extension. Also a very under utilised path the views from here are absolutely spectacular.

The top of Oedekraal Ravine

From now on you pass several routes that lead up onto the 12 Apostles from the Pipe Track that are fairly straight forward. For those looking for a shorter walk or who would not like to tackle the Hout Bay corner scramble, these are the better paths to follow. The first of these is Corridor Ravine. Similar to Oudekraal Ravine this route is steep and loose underfoot. Fine to come up but not recommended to go down. From the top of Corridor there is short climb before dropping down to the top of Slangholie ravine. This is a very dangerous route definitely not recommended. A short up from here takes you past a small path that leads to the 3 firs route. This is a route with some severe exposure and although very enjoyable I would not recommend it unless there is someone with you knows the path. After another half an hours walk you pass a sign to Woody Ravine. This route is closed due to a rock fall about half way down. Another half an hour beyond this brings you to Kasteelspoort. This is the most popular and easiest route up the 12 Apostles.

The top of Kasteelspoort.

If you started in Hout Bay you will now have been walking for around 5 hours, and are now about 3/4 of the way through your hike. You continue along the path to the Valley of the Red Gods. Here you have a choice. A small path leading to the left will take you the Diagonal Path.  This is a wonderful path that will lead you onto the Pipe Track by taking you along the side of the mountain around Barrier, Jubilee and Porcupine buttresses. A bit of a scramble with some exposure, this may not suit everyone. If you prefer a simpler route then continue on the 12 Apostles path through the Valley of Isolation  and into Echo Valley. To the left is Blinkwater Ravine. This should be your way down but is also closed due to a rockfall. So you now continue straight up onto the Western Table. Here you need to climb 300m, which at the end of a long day can be a challenge. You arrive at the top of Platteklip Gorge, so can choose between the Cable car or Platteklip Gorge for your downward journey  

Looking down Diagonal Path

Hiking in the Matroosberg

The Matroosberg Nature Reserve is found 35km beyond Ceres. This is about a 3 hour drive from Cape Town. The reserve is found on Erfdeel farm and holds 1000 hectares of the most amazing mountains. The highest peak is the Matroosberg peak which reaches 2249m. However there are numerous other peaks in the region making this one of the most astounding places to hike in the Western Cape.

A view from the hiking trail in Matroosberg

The route from the farm to the Matroosberg peak is a 13km. The route is on a well worn trail and rises from a height of 1250m. So the total climb is around 1000m. There and back in one day should take you in the region of 8 to 10 hours. However as camping is permitted in the reserve it is truly wonderful to hike in and camp overnight in the reserve.

A cold summers morning in Matroosberg

At this height it can be severely cold even in the middle of summer so you do need to be prepared. Also be warned that there is a 4×4 trail leading to the peak. So I would avoid the area over public holidays as your peace could well be disturbed by spinning wheels and exhaust fumes. Don’t be dismayed though, if you can only get away over weekends it is possible to avoid the crowds by climbing one of the other peaks.

Climbers are also drawn to the mountains here

Full moon hike up Lions Head

Hiking up Lions Head at full moon is a great Capetonian tradition. The hike itself takes about an hour to an hour and a half up, and then about an hour down. So no need to leave work early. The mountain tends to be quite busy on any evening and especially full moon, so don’t expect a romantic evening of  hiking alone.

To get there drive to the top of Kloof Nek and take the first road to the right. Follow this road for about a km, until you see all the cars parked on the right hand side of the road. Park here and after enjoying the already amazing view of the city, head up the jeep track behind you.

The jeep track winds around Lions Head so after 5 minutes walking you come to some outstanding views over Camps Bay and the 12 apostles. Follow the road around until you overlook Bantry Bay. Here the wide road becomes a smaller path which continues to wind around the mountain until you are above your car and overlooking the city again. Here the path becomes quite narrow and you need to negotiate a ladder and a couple of precipitous ledges. (only those with a real fear of heights need to worry. The path is quite wide and clear)

The chains

You then come to a choice. Up the ladders or around the back of the mountain to a short scramble up above Campe Bay. I recommend the chains up and the longer way down. But of course the choice is up to you. The 2 routes meet at 3 pine trees marking a scramble up to the final spine of the mountain.

The last 20 minutes is quite steep and has one ladder. There is a steep drop on the left, but again, only those with a real fear of heights need to be worried.

The ladder to the top of Lions Head

Once at the top there is a large flat area with fantastic 360 degree views. Having left at around 5.00pm, you should be at the top  by 6.30pm.

The 12 Apostles and Camps Bay from Lions Head hike

Table Mountain from Lions Head

 This gives you time to watch the sun sink over the sea at Camps Bay.

The sun sinking into the Atlantic

Then behind you the moon rising over the Stellenbosch mountains and city. Fantastic.

The moon rising to the East of Cape Town

Be carefull going down. Although the full moon should provide good light it is important to take a torch as there are some trecherous places on the way down so you need to be sure of your footing.

Beach walks around Cape Town

There are numerous beaches around Cape Town and throughout the Western Cape that offer a wonderful alternative to a mountain walk. There are are numerous long empty beaches so a beach walk does not need to be a short walk, and although generally flat the soft sand can give you a good workout. 

For Table Mountain views the best walks are from The Milnerton/Table view coast. Here you can literally walk for kilometres, and although the beach around some of the parking areas may be crowded, within minutes you have a beach to yourself.

The view of Table Mountain from Milnerton Beach

Another famous beach in the Cape Town area is the Noordhoek Beach. This is another beach that offers kilometers of walking without seeing a soul. An added attraction of a walk on this beach is the shipwreck found embedded in the sand at the half way point.

Noordhoek Beach offers kilometers of beach walking

On the other side of the Peninsula the beaches on the False Bay coast offer warmer water for a possible swim or surfing lesson.

The beach huts of Muizenberg

Beautiful beaches abound everywhere. The water is usually cold and a paddle bracing. So next time you get up too late to climb on Table Mountain find a beach for a relaxing stroll instead.

An early morning walk on a beach near Kleinmond

Hike up Table Mountain instead of

cycling the Argus

Got a morning to spare in Cape Town? A guided hike on Table Mountain is the perfect way to spend your time.

I must admit I am a big fan of the Argus cycle tour. I have completed it 10 times and loved every one. The past 2 years though, I have enjoyed a hike up Table Mountain when everyone else is cycling around it.

Some points are obviously difficult to get to. Camps Bay would be pretty impossible, and Kirstenbosch or Constantia Nek only possible via main road. (The M3 South obviously being closed) The easiest is to join all the cyclists heading for the city and do Platteklip Gorge or India Venster.

This morning we started up Platteklip at 6.30am. Just as it was getting light. The weather was perfect (for us and the cyclists) cool with a light breeze.

We started as the sun was rising.

We were joined today by Helen whose husband was cycling and hoped to be off the mountain before he finished his race!  We took our time with lots of stops to admire the view.

Peter and Helen having a break

We didn’t see too much in the way of wildlife although we did hear a dassie alarm call and Peter was dive bombed by some pied crows. We chatted to people from all over the world and were humbled by some school boys running up the trail!

The top is in sight!

After 3 hours we reached the top.

A perfect day in good company. Took the cable car down in time to go and support the tired cyclists.

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Hiking in Stellenbosch

Join Ridgway Ramblers for a guided hike in the Jonkershoek Nature Reserve.

The Jonkershoek Nature Reserve is found near the town of Stellenbosch, which is about an hours drive from Cape Town. This is truly one of the most beautiful reserves in the Western Cape. There are a number of hiking trails to choose from with one of the most popular being the Tweede Waterval Trail. (2 waterfalls trail) This is relatively easy 6.4km trail. So the actual walking takes little more than a couple of hours. However most people take a full day to meander along the trail enjoying the beautiful scenary and numerous swimming pools along the way.

Entry to the reserve is R30 per head. From the entrance gate follow the dirt road for about 5km, until it reaches the head of the valley. Here the road takes a turn to the left and crosses the river. Park your car here. Then follow the road back the way you came for 5 minutes until you see the path leading off the road. The path is sandy and relatively flat. After about 10 minutes you pass a turn to the right. This takes you to the first waterfall.

The path is sandy and relatively flat

 Even in mid summer when the fall itself is a trickle, it is worth the 10 minute detour up this path. At the base of the fall is a beautiful pool surrounded by indigenous trees. The ravine leading up to the waterall is narrow and lined with green mosses and ferns.

After a break return to the main path and continue to follow the river up into the valley. You cross a number of small tributary streams and many tempting cool pools. The water is clear and clean so well worth the odd stop. The path becomes a bit rockier and rises steeplyat times. The drop on the right hand side into the river below is quite steep in one place, but only those with a severe fear of heights will find this difficult.

After about an hours walking you reach the turn for the 2nd waterfall. The fall can be seen high above you. When it is flowing strongly this path is closed and dangerous. During the summer months follow the path to yet another peacefull shady area for a break.

Tea break at 2nd waterfall

Return to your car on the same path.

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Safe hiking on Table Mountain

Last weekend saw a dramatic rescue being performed on Table Mountain. 2 hikers became stuck on a ledge on 1st Waterfall ravine on Devils Peak. Luckily both were unhurt, but had found themselves unable to continue either up or down thus had been compelled to call for help.

Anyone planning a hike on Table Mountain is urged to ensure they have someone in the group who knows the route.

There are several gorges and routes up Table Mountain. Some easy, some requiring some technical scrambling and others only possible with the use of ropes. On many of the routes it is necessary to know where to go in order to take the safe route up. If you do find yourself on a route that you are not familiar with bear in mind that it is often easier to get up, than it is to come down. So before continuing to struggle up, make sure you will be comfortable to get yourself down that same route.

Examples of entirely safe routes up Table Mountain are: Platteklip Gorge, Nursery ravine and the Constantia jeep track. Although all are steep anyone of moderate fitness can manage these route. There is no exposure or technical skills required.

Easy scramble route examples are: Llundudno corner, Nursery Butress and Diagonal ravine.

Examples of slightly more technical scramble routes are: Woody Buttress and India Venster. These routes require some technical scrambling and have some exposure. Although use of a rope is not necessary, it is a good idea to have one with the group in case someone is nervous.

More advanced scrambling is required on routes such a Kloof Corner. For these you need a very good head for heights and a rope is highly recommended.

(These lists are far from exhaustive. There are literally hundreds of routes on Table Mountain)

Fynbos hikes on Table Mountain

Take a guided hike on Table Mountain with Ridgway Ramblers to find King Proteas and Disa’s in flower

One of the most fantastic things about Table Mountain is that throughout the year there will always be something flowering. To choose a favourite time of year would be difficult, however  February and March are pretty special with a variety of Disa’s and the King Protea flowering at this time.

Disa is a large African orchid genus. There are 144 species found in Southern Africa with many being found on Table Mountain. They come in a variety of colours and size with many being restricted to very small areas or small and rarely seen. The best known of the Disa’s is the Disa Uniflora. This large and stunning flower is the representative flower of the Western Cape. It flowers in abundance alongside many of the rivers and damp areas on Table Mountain. The Aquaduct, Myburghs Waterfall Ravine and Window Gorge being some of the favourite places for viewing.

The beautiful Red Disa

Whilst the beautiful Red Disa is large and often found in large groups. There are others in flower during February and March which are often missed. The dainty Blue Disa is found alongside many of the paths of the mountain but often ignored as it is found singly and relatively small.

The small and dainty Blue Disa

The Cluster Disa is another beautiful patch of colour found all over the mountain during these months.

The colourful Cluster Disa

Whilst these examples by no means exhaust the variety of Disa plants that can be found on the mountain. They are among the most common during the late summer which is also the time when the King Protea flowers in this area. The King Protea is one of the largest and most outstanding of the Protea family. For this reason it is the national flower of South Africa. Recognisable by its large flowerhead and distinctly stalked leaves. Whislt King Proteas can be found throughout the Table Mountain National Park, they can be found in great abundance in Nursery Ravine.

A beautiful Protea found in Nursery Ravine