A magnificent waterfall hike

 on Table Mountain

One of the most spectacular hikes on Table Mountain is the Suikerbossie circuit. This route begins and ends at Suikerbossie restaurant. (between Hout Bay and Llandudno) As much of the route up the mountain follows the steep and often wet Myburgh waterfall ravine, this is a route best not followed in the winter, or by those not equipped with good footwear.

Take the turn off the main road signposted to the restaurant, and park before you take the sharp turn to the left. The path is to the left of the pillars that lead into the Ryterplaats estate. Follw the path as it leads past the restaurant and through some pine trees. Once above the pines, the path takes a right turn and follows the contour for around 3 km. This is a wonderful path, above the tree line with towering cliffs above you. The path dips and passes through Myburghs Kloof. Do not turn up the mountain here, but continue to the next thickly wooded ravine. (it should take you around an hour to reach here)

The path leads you up the left side of the ravine through magnificent indigenous forest. After around 15 minutes you come to a waterfall. You clambour up the side of the waterfall following a vague path. There are foot and hand holds, but be carefull as the route can be slippy here. Once at the top the path is even fainter, but you just keep following the river. The trees here are even better, and the sides of the waterfall are lined with dripping moss. In February this is one of the best places for spotting the red disa. But is beautiful at any time of the year. The river bed becomes narrower and narrower and leads to another waterfall. The best route up is directly up the waterfall.

The route follows the narrow river gorge

Once at the top you pick up a path on the left bank of the stream that leads to the top of the ravine and moves gradually away from the river. Once at the top the path levels out and leads you across the mountain, to where it joins the main path which leads accross the 12 apostles to Hout Bay. Turn left onto this path, and follow it past Judas Peak and begins to descend gradually. Once you begin to descend look out for a sharp right turn which will take you to the top of Llandudno ravine. This is a steep descent, over some loose ground. Slowly and carefully is best. At the bottom you get on an amazing contour path, at a height of 400m. Stay on this path, it leads directly back to Suikerbossie Restuarant via a small rock scramble.

The waterfall when flowing

Driving on Chapmans Peak Drive.

Every now and then, its a good idea to take a break from hiking and just relax and enjoy a scenic drive. The most amazing road in The Cape Peninsula is Chapmans Peak drive. This is the road that is quite literally dug out of the cliffs between Hout Bay and Noordhoek. The building of this road began in 1915, but was only finished in 1922. During the 1990’s there were a number of rock falls and the road was closed for some years while it was rebuilt in some areas, and the mountain above it stabilised. When reopened it was as a toll road, with cars paying R30 at the present to drive through. Believe me, it is well worth this cost.  The views from the road are spectacular, whilst the road itself is a wonder of modern engineering. I really believe that a visit to Cape Town, is not complete without a drive along here.  It has a number of wonderful walks and hikes leading off it, with the climbing of Chapmans Peak itself being one of the best. Alternatively, include it in your itinerary when you plan a visit to Cape Point.

Chapmans Peak Drive

Chapmans Peak snaking around the mountain

A section of Chapmans Peak drive dug into the cliffs

I learned the other day, that in New Zealand, the word to describe what I would call hiking is “tramping” I googled the word, and indeed “tramping” is the word used to describe the “recreational activity that involves walking over rough country”

Having increased my vocabulary by 1 word, I thought I would do a bit of further investigation and see what other new words I could learn. As I have already stated, I would generally use the term “hiking” which is a term widely used throughout the English speaking world. I also often just use the simple term “walk“. However, I find that people often expect a walk to be a shorter and less energetic amble or stroll than a hike. (there we have 2 other words to describe the activity under discussion.)

My investigation did however reveal a large number of other words. In Autralia, the word “bushwalking” is often used to describe walking both off and on trail. Somehow this word reminds of another South African phrase “bundu bashing” this is a word we use for going off trail. Often into very difficult terrain we need to bash our way through. Many multi day hikes are described as “trekking” This word seems to be especially prevalent in hiking tours in Nepal and South America. Multi day trips are also sometimes called “backpacking“ ( this term can also be used to describe travelling with a backpack. Usually using cheaper accommodation, and travel, with no specific time frame or even destination.) I did discover that in the US marines, the term “humping” is used. This describes walking over long distances carrying  (or humping) your kit. I even found a reference to heli-hiking. This is hiking in inaccessible areas, that can be reached only by helicopter.

Finally the term “scrambling” seems to be commonly used to describe “technical hiking” or “non technical climbing” In other words, routes where you have to use your hands to get over and up obstacles/rocks, but don’t necessarily need ropes.

So there we have it. There are several words to describe the recreational activity of walking in the natural environment. Whatever you call it, spending time walking on Table Mountain, is the best way to appreciate this famous natural wonder that is a must see for any visitor to South Africa.

One of my favourite walks in Cape Town, which has some of the most spectacular views from anywhere on the Table Mountain Chain, begins in Silvermine East and takes you to the top of both Muizenberg Peak and St James Peak. One of the nice things about this walk is that you actually begin to walk at around 300m, and the highest point you reach is the top of Muizenberg Peak at 507m. So, although not an easy walk, it doesn’t have any huge steep climbs, such as are found on many other walks on Table Mountain.

The view of Noordhoek from Muizenberg Peak

To get the starting point and car park, you need to drive to the top of Ou Kaapse Weg. Here you turn into Silvermine on the left (if travelling towards Noordhoek) There is a large parking area here, with a R5 parking fee. From the parking area, follow the jeep track for +/- 1km, until you come to a junction. Take the left fork and continue along the jeep track for another km. Here at another junction you continue straight on for another km. Here the jeep track takes a sharp turn to the right and becomes more path like. Look for a smaller path leading off to the left. A small plaque on a rock indicates this as the path to Muizenberg Peak. Although the jeep track has been climbing steadily since you started, this next 500m is the steepest section of the walk. The path leads onto a shoulder, and you take a path to the right which leads you onto the mountains ridge. Here you follow the ridge for 500m, with wonderfull views on both sides. On your left you have False Bay, and the entire Southern suburbs, whislt on your right you can see almost the entire Silvermine Valley with Noordhoek in the distance.

Overlooking False Bay, from Muizenberg Peak

The next section of your walk takes you back down the mountain where you come to another junction. Left will take you down a steep path to Boyes drive, whilst right will take you back onto the jeep track and the way you came. Rather go straight ahead on a clear path, and take the first clear path to the left. This leads you straight to the top of St James Peak. From here you look almost directly down onto surfers corner in Muizenberg. Finally continue to follow the path back onto a jeep track. At the jeep track turn right and at the next junction left. You are now back on the jeep track where you began.

Hiking to a beach, and to see some

interesting rock formations

found on Table Mountain

From the city of Cape Town, Table Mountain sometimes seems to be unassailable lump of rock. Visitors are often astounded at how extensive the mountain is behind the towering cliffs above the city. Those who do take the time to walk on Table Mountain, can also enjoy some of the strange rock formations found there. Even stranger is having a picnic on a beach…. right on top of the mountain
The beach is found at the top of Skeleton Gorge. If you have climbed up Skeleton gorge, take the right hand path around breakfast rock and keep going straight ahead. After about 5 minutes walking you will find you are walking in ankle deep sand. A little bit further and you will see a beautiful white beach leading into the water of the Hely Hutchinson dam. Here is a perfect place for a tea or a lunch stop.

The sand dune behind Skeleton Gorge

The beach with Hely Hutchinson dam behind

The rocks of Table Mountain are all of sandstone. So this pile of sand is obviously a collection of eroded material.

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 Another amazing sight you can see on your hike on Table Mountain, is a variety of weird and wonderful rock formations. One of these is one I call “dog head rock” It is found on Smuts track between Skeleton Gorge and Maclears Beacon, and can be seen from some distance away. This is another good place for a break, where those more adventurous souls, may want to try out their climbing skills.

Dog head rock, viewed from Smuts Track.

Adventurous hikers can scramble to the top of the rock

The contour path hike above

Chapmans Peak

The contour path which runs from East Fort, just outside Hout Bay, to Chapmans Peak itself, offers some of the best views in Cape Town and one of the nicest walks on the Table Mountain Chain.

 There is a small climb of around 300m to begin with, but is otherwise generally pretty flat. So this is a good hike if you are not feeling like slogging the whole way up the mountain.

A waterfall coming off Table Mountain

Park your car at the East Fort parking area just outside Hout Bay. From here follow the small path up to East Fort. Take a moment to admire the ancient buildings before continuing uphill on another small path. This path joins a jeep track after about 100m. Turn left and follow the jeep track as it zigzags up hill for another 200m. This is the steepest bit of the walk, so take it slowly and enjoy the views. Once the path has flattenned out, do not take the switchback path that heads still further up the mountain, but continue along the contour towards Noordhoek. The first stretch of the contour path has a steep fall to your right, and many waterfalls cascading from your left (in the winter), so in combination with the views over Hout Bay and Chapmans Peak is truly magnificent. After about half an hour, you come to a junction. This is Blackburn Ravine. A left turn up the hill, will take you to Silvermine. Rather turn right and follow the path 100m down to where the contour path continues on a lower level.  (if you do not rejoin the contour path at the next waterfall but continue down the ravine, you will find yourself back on the jeep track and back at your car) 

The path down Blackburn Ravine

The contour path continues for another hour or so towards Chapmans Peak. The cliffs of Silvermine on the left hand side tower above you, also with some scenic waterfalls, but not right onto the path as on the higher section.

Numerous waterfalls flow over the contour path

 Just before Chapmans Peak you reach a 4 way junction. Left leads once again up and over into Silvermine. Straight on leads to the top of Chapmans Peak. Right leads down onto Chapmans Peak drive, and behind you, is of course, the contour path.

The four way junction

The path down to the road is steep, but clear and well maintained. Once on the road, turn left and walk to your car.

East Fort. A hike on Chapmans

Peak

East Fort, is the remains of a fortification, found on the Northern slopes of Chapmans Peak Drive. The fort was originally built in the 1780’s by French merceneries in the declining years of the Dutch East Indies company. Since then it was used by both French and British occupiers, until being abandoned in 1826.

The remains are found some 5 minutes walk from the road. You pass through Hout Bay and follow the signs for Chapmans Peak Drive. Follow the road around a couple of hairpin bends, and look for a largish parking area on your right. (If you get to the toll gate you have gone too far) Once parked look out over the sea towards Hout Bay Harbour. The view is magnificent, and you can see the first remains of the fort, perched on the rocks overlooking the Bay.

The remains of East Fort, from the parking area

 To see the rest of the fort, you take the small path leading up towards the mountain. It is well signed and the path clear.

The path to East Fort is well signed

 The remains of the fort are quite distinct and impressive. Even better are the views of both the mountain and the Bay from there.

Although the fort can be viewed after a 2 minute walk. The paths behind the fort, lead to several routes up the mountain behind. So it is a good starting or ending point to a hike.

Tranquility Cracks-one of Table

Mountains best kept secrets!

Tranquility Cracks is the name given to one of my favourite places on Table Mountain. From above  it looks like thick  fynbos. But once you’ve squeezed through the initial crack in the rocks, you encounter a labyrinth of corridors between rocks filled with indigenous yellowwood trees. Once inside the cracks, you encounter an area that is pristine and tranquil. A favourite on a windy day, as you are totally sheltered here, and able to enjoy a peaceful break.  

Inside Tranquility Cracks

To find them the best route is up Corridor Ravine. This is one of the many routes that leads off the Pipe Track. You follow the Pipe Track past Kasteelspoort, Woody Ravine and Slangholie Ravine. The path up Corridor Ravine is not marked by a sign, so look for a path going left up the next ravine past Slangholie. (If you miss it, you will end up going up Oudekraal Ravine instead. No problem, just a longer walk) The route up Corridor Ravine is steep and quite slow going. However with lots of stops to admire the view you should be at the top within an hour. Once at the top, turn left and follow the path up an incline. Once the path levels out, after about a 5 minute walk, look for a path to the left. It is small but quite clear. This path will take you directly to the cracks.

The top of Corridor Ravine

For your return journey you can either return via corridor, or continue along the 12 apostles path and take one of the other routes down.

Try a hike on Table Mountain-its

fun!

The World cup in Cape Town has been absolutely fantastic. Its been fantastic in the whole of South Africa, but I have only seen it from a Capetonian perspective. One of the best thing is all the visitors to our city, who would never have come here had they not been a soccer fan. Many of the people I have met, had no expectations or plans. (except for watching the soccer!) So it was extra special to be able to introduce them to the wonders of Table Mountain.

Here are some of them enjoying a walk on Table Mountain.

scrambling up India Venster

Celebrating reaching the top of Platteklip Gorge

The Eland path at the top of Table Mountain

At the highest point of Table Mountain

Keep your eyes open for sunbirds,

when walking on Table Mountain

One of the best sights you can see, when walking on Table Mountain is a sunbird. These tiny birds flit from bush to bush often seen as nothing more than a brief flash of colour caught in the corner of your eye. They have a sharp call that is easily recognised, so on hearing it keep you eyes open and move slowly and quietly. Seldom still for long, you may be rewarded with a sighting.

As with many brids, the females are rather less brightly coloured, but still move with intense swift movements, that cannot help but impress.