South Africa is home to many fantastically scenic, but also incredibly challenging marathons. One of the most challenging must be “The Puffer” This 80km race, begins at Cape Point, and ends in the waterfront. The distance in itself is challenging, but what makes this such a gruelling race, is the fact that the route follows the Table Mountain chain. Thus, the ground underfoot is mostly rocky or sandy, with repeated hard uphills, and difficult downhills. (Imagine, after running for several hours, having to then race DOWN Platteklip gorge! Anyone who knows this route, knows it is steep, with large uneven steps, and often loose underfoot.) There are numerous checkpoints along the route, but for much of the way the runners are on their own or in small groups. The route is unmarked, therefore a knowledge of the mountain, the route, and the ability to read a map is also essential. Obviously on such a difficult race, entry is limited, and the organisers ensure all the racers are experienced and capable.The winner this year (2010) ran this in a incredible 6 hours and 57 minutes!!

However, for those who would consider the Puffer a bit to easy!! There is The Tuffer Puffer!! This race follows begins in the waterfront, with runners running all the way to Cape Point, in time to join the other racers as they begin the puffer. This year, the winning time for this race was 25 hours and 56 minutes.

Congratulations to all the runners. Finishing this amazing marathon is an incredible feat.

For more information have a look at their website. http://www.puffer.fishhoekac.com/index.htm.

views.

The hike to the Tokai lookout hut, is a great shorter hike, if you are limited for time, or are introducing someone to the pleasures of hiking. Walking at a reasonable speed, you can be back at your car, in less than 2 hours.

Park your car at the top car park beside the dam, in Silvermine North. (you need a wild card or to pay R15 entry fee at the gate) The take the path, signed to elephants eye cave. Initially a small shaded path, you join with a jeep track after50m. Continue on a small incline for about a kilometer. At a T junction you take a left turn, up a much steeper hill for 20m, then take the small path to the left. Although steep, this path cuts out a large switchback on the jeep track.  Once you rejoin the jeep track, you are already at a height of 550m. Stop here and admire the view over False Bay, and the Muizenberg Mountains for a while.

The jeep track

Once on your way again take the first path to the right. . This path leads you on a relatively flat route, around Steenberg Ridge and above Tokai Forest. During the winter you cross many small streams and it is slippery in a couple of areas, so take care. After a further 500m, you take the left turn at a trail head and begin a small final climb to the hut.

 whilst hiking on Table Mountain

One of the most enjoyable things about a walk on Table Mountain, is the opportunity to escape into a wilderness area, and to really enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the pristine floral kingdom found on the mountain. One of the most distinctive smells, is the camphor bush or tree. This small tree, is found throughout the Table Mountain chain and also has very distinctive velvety leaves with a much darker topside and very visible veins on the lower side. The fruit, which is visible from March to November is covered in fluffy cottonwool hairs, and is also extremely eye catching.

The fluffy fruit on a camphor tree

 The next time you pass one, take a leaf and crush it between your fingers. The distinctive aroma is strong, and very pleasant. The plant has been used for medicinal purposes throughout history, to assist with blocked sinuses, ease a cough, or as a relaxing rub for sore muscles.

Its Latin name is Tarchonanthus camphoratus which is derived from the Greek word meaning funeral. (presumably due to the preservative properties of camphor)

Devils Peak is the large Peak to the left of Table Mountain if you look at it from Cape Town. Although 1000m high, so only 85m lower than Maclears Beacon it is often an ignored area for walking, which is a pity as it has some of the best hiking on the Table Mountain Chain.

The easiest way to the top is from Tafelberg Rd, via the Saddle Path. To get there you drive past the parking area of Platteklip gorge and park at the next path that leads up the mountain. This is a well contoured path that leads first to the contour path, and then on up onto the saddle which is at 650m. You should reach the saddle after about 40 mins walking.

The Saddle Path

 It is here that the real climb begins.  It is worth stopping to admire the view on the way up. On the one side, you can look through the saddle to False Bay, whilst on the other side you have a picture postcard view of the Platteklip Gorge route up Table Mountain, as well as the cable car and Lions Head.

Looking over the saddle to False Bay

You can still hike to the top of Table Mountain though. Give me a call to organise a guided hike up one of the magnificent gorges found on Table Mountain.

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Mountain

The Constantia Corner route up Table Mountain, is a mild scramble, which takes you to The De Villiers Dam. From there you can either continue your walk further onto the Back Table, or return to your car down the concrete road.

Park your car at Constantia Nek, and start up the concrete road from the bottom. After you pass the gates which mark the start of the Table Mountain National Park, take the first path that leads up the steep slope to your left. This path is steep and quite heavily eroded in places. It rejoins the concrete road after about 15 minutes hard climb. Once you rejoin the road you have the choice to follow the road around a hairpin bend, or go straight ahead. To get to Constantia corner you go straight ahead. The road ends but a small path leads from the end of the road up to your right. Follw this path. After around 200m the path splits. Take the right fork. This path leads you to the base of the cliffs which you follow around so you are now looking over Hout Bay and Orange Kloof.  After another 500m, look for a cairn on your right. This indicates where you should turn upwards. Here the path is steep and leads onto a shoulder. Follow the clear path to your left, which leads up onto Constantia Corner ridge. The path now leads you North for about 2km, to the De Villiers Dam. The route is well marked and includes a couple of easy scrambles. There are 2 distinct milestones on this route. The first is a gap between 2 large rocks, where a large overhang offers a good place for a tea break. (watch out for the blister bush here)

Roderick examining the overhang

The other milestone is the camel rock, one of the oddly weathered rocks on Table Mountain.

The oddly shaped Camel rock

On reaching the De Villiers dam take the path to the right which rejoins the concrete road.

At De Villers Dam, before rejoining the concrete road

Table Mountain?

To the visitor to Cape Town, there is an overwhelming amount of information regarding Table Mountain. From different hiking trails to the cable car etc. Many people are torn between walking up and taking the cable car. Having made the decision to walk up. They then need to decide which route to take.

So here is my take on the matter. 

You need to decide: 1. How much time you have available. 2. If you have the necessary equipment for a full days hike. (suitable shoes, warm clothing etc) 3. if you know the route, or have a suitable map.

The cable car is an experience certainly, but if you are reasonably fit, it is really worth hiking up Table Mountain and only taking the cable car down. By hiking up, you get away from the classic tourist route and the crowds, plus you actually experience Table Mountain as a mountain, not just another view spot.

Having opted to hike, there is then the choice of routes. The paths most often mentioned are:

Platteklip Gorge: This is the most popular route on the mountain and it takes you to 15 mins walk from the cable car. The average time to walk up is around 2 hours. The views are magnificent. It is a steep relentless path, but well worth the effort. This route can be quite busy, and it is unlikely you will get lost. (although it does happen)

Skeleton Gorge ascends Table mountain above Kirstenbosch Gardens. Most of the way is through indinenous trees so quite shady. There are a couple of handily placed ladders to get you up a couple of difficult stretches. Once at the top, the views of the Southern suburbs and False Bay are fantastic. The climb from Kirstenbosch should take around 2 hours. However is is another 2 to 2.5 hours walk to the cable way.  So this is a full days hike, if you intend going to the main area of Table Mountain.

Kasteelspoort. The Kasteelspoort route up Table Mountain, ascends the mountain above Camps Bay. Here the views of the Atlantic seaboard are unbeatable. As with Skeleton Gorge, although the climb itself takes around 2 hours, it will take you another 2 to 2.5 hours to get to the cable car, if that is your plan.

For both Kasteelspoort and Skeleton Gorge. I recommend you have someone with you who knows the path. The Back Table, is an extensive wilderness area, with many paths. Getting lost is a very real possibility.

There are of course, many more routes and paths up Table Mountain. The 3 I mention are those most often mentioned in the guide books.

in Kirstenbosch gardens

Kirstenbosch Gardens is ideally suited to the display of various forms of art. From the summer concerts, to art exhibitions to Greek theatre   For the next 12 months the untamed exhibition is well worth a visit for the whole family. I wandered in there by accident and ended up spending a whole afternoon. The writings expecially “speak” to me. But the living wall is impressive, and the sculptures dramatic. If you have a free afternoon in Cape Town, I highly recommend a vist to the gardens in general, but make sure you take time to visit this outstanding exhibition while you are there.

Untamed, is a collaberative display including sculpture, architecture and poetry. Its aim is to “explore the lost balance between humankind and nature” The exhibition,  inludes sculptures by Dylan Lewis. These explore the wild nature of within and without us. The poems and writings on display are by Ian McCallum, and explore humans unconcious connection with nature and the natural world. These writings and sculptures are housed in a temporary structure with includes a living wall, or vertical garden concept, in which indigenous plants held in recycled plastic containers are held in a steel vertical frame.

One of Ian McCallums poems on display in Kirstenbosch gardens

A sculpture on display at the untamed exhibition

with accomodation on the

mountain

Last Wednesday evening I had a real treat. I hiked from Silvermine to the bottom of Platteklip Gorge over 2 days, with the night spent in the Overseers cottage on top of the mountain.

There are a number of routes you can follow to get to the cottage. But I chose to walk from the dam in Silvermine North, around the Hout Bay side of the Constantiaberg, via the lookout point and Blackburn Ravine. This way we enjoyed the floral splendour of Silvermine as well as the fantastic views over Chapmans peak. We then hiked past the manganese mines and over the Vlakkenberg to Constantia Nek. From here, having already been hiking for 5 hours, we had a last one hour climb to the cottage. It was a tough day, but well worth it!!

The view over Hout Bay is magnificent

We arrived at the cottage to be welcomed by our back up team. They had arrived earlier with the luggage and food. After a warm shower we settled down with a glass of wine and snacks. This followed by a braai finished off a perfect day. The Overseers cottage is well equipped with comfortable beds so we then spent a comfortable night before heading off again the following morning.

We were up early to see the sunrise

After an early start to catch the sunrise, and a full breakfast, we again shouldered our day packs and set off on day 2. Again there are a number of routes to Platteklip Gorge. I chose to follow the East side of the mountain until we reached Nursery Ravine. We then turned left and followed the Nursery through to the central part of the mountain, where we visited the waterworks museum. From here I took my favourate path through the aquaduct. (if you have never taken this path, do yourself a favour. It follows a small beautiful gorge that feeds the dams.)

The Aquaduct path follows a small gorge

 This route leads back to join Smuts track on the Eastern side of the mountain. We carried on along this path to Maclears Beacon, and then on to the Table top. We chose to hike down Platteklip rather than cheat and take the cable car.  At the bottom we were met by our faithfull back up team, bearing magnum ice cream and ice tea……. A perfect 2 days.

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along the contour path

One of the nicest shorter hikes on Table Mountain, follows the contour path above Kirstenbosch gardens. It takes around 2 hours, and takes you past 3 beautiful waterfalls. Just after, or even during the rain, these waterfalls can be quite big, and the path difficult to follow without getting your feet wet. However, if you are not afraid of a bit of a paddle,  then this is a great walk.

To get there park at Kirstenbosch’s Rycroft (top gate) Gate. Go through the gate and head straight towards the mountain. The path goes pretty much straight up. After about 20 minutes you meet the contour path. Turn right here. Almost immediately you cross the first waterfall. For much of the year this stream is dry, but during winter it can become a raging torrent. Although quite narrow, it is not always possible to jump accross, so you may have to get your feet wet here! Having crossed the stream, continue along the path. Your next obstacle is the river that runs down Nursey Ravine. This is a fairly broad river, and usually quite easy to cross by jumping from rock to rock. (I do not count this river as a waterfall, as upstream of the path, it is not particularly steep.)

The contour path

Once accross, again, keep following the contour path. Next you come to Skeleton Gorge. Go past Smuts Track, that leads up the mountain and follow the path around the corner. Here is dips down to meet the river. This is one of the most beautiful waterfalls on Table Mountain. A sheer cliff of several metres high, falls straight onto the path. Lined with moss, and with the indigenous forest above it, this spot is beautiful at any time of year. The path leads directly under the waterfall. However, here the river is quite wide, and the path quite broad, so although you may get your feet wet, you don’t feel in danger of being swept away.

The waterfall at Skeleton Gorge

The next and final waterfall is at window gorge. This is the steepest and when in spate has caused me to turn around on a couple of occasions. However, if you  make it past here, take the next right turn off the contour path, and back into Kirstenbosch gardens.