Where to hike when its pouring with rain in Cape Town? You may think that a hike is out of the question, and on some days that may be so. However, some times, it is worth a little investigation, to see what is hapenning elsewhere on the Peninsula.

A rainbow over the city. Taken from Tafelberg rd

Yesterday morning, in the Southern suburbs and Cape Town city centre, it was raining the proverbial cats and dogs, and a very wet day, seemed to be in order. Initially I planned a day on the Kirstenbosch side, along the contour path and to Cecelia waterfall. At least on this walk, the trees and forest would offer some shelter, and its a beautiful walk in any weather.

But in a moment of inspiration, I decided to look a little further afield, and so drove to Kalk Bay. No rain! Overcast, but no rain! We set off up the Oukraal Path, and through Echo Valley. Despite being overcast, there was a wonderful view, and still no rain! As we came over the top of the ridge and began to drop into Silvermine, we were hit by a blast of the cold North Westerly wind, and could see the dark clouds over Constantiaberg and Table Mountain, indicating lots of rain over there. But we still remained dry.

View from Hilltop path, above Kalk Bay

Joining the jeep track, and beginning to head back towards False Bay again, we were clearly heading towards blue sky. Whilst behind us, Noordhoek looked very miserable indeed. By the time, we reached the Spes Bona forest Path, and headed into the Amphitheatre, we were fishing in our backpacks to find sunscreen and hats, and were back at the car in blazing sunshine. So despite waking to pouring rain, we still a wonderful days hike.

Someone told me the other day, that there are over 600 routes on Table Mountain. This includes walks, scrambles and climbs. I have no idea what the exact number of routes are, but there are an amazing number. What is even better, is that each walk has its own character, and can be a totally different experience to one, only a kilometer away.

 Agathas Gulley, is a short, but strenuous routes beginning at Constantia Nek. Follow the path from the Nek, to where is joins the cement road after the first corner. Here, instead of following the cement road up, follow it straight on to a dead end, and look for the path that leads up the mountain from here.  Follow the path around to the right, as it traverses above Hout Bay. The views, even at this low level are terrific, and quite different from those if you follow the more traditional routes onto the back table. After 50 metres on the traverse, you follow a faint path, that drops down through the proteas, and continue right around the back of the mountain, to Agathas Gulley itself.

The view of Hout Bay, from Agathas Gulley

 The Gulley at the moment has clearly been affected by the heavy rains of the past few years, so a bit of scrambling is required over loose rock.

Looking up Agathas Gulley

 Half way up the gulley you take a left turn, through a small overhang and again, continue to traverse the mountain. Now right above Orange Kloof, the views of Groot Kop, and the rest of the back Table are magnificent. More scrambling follows, continuing to move to around the mountain, until you join the Constantia Corner path, just before the camel rock.

Follow the path to the De Villiers reservoir, and from there, either continue along the Back Table, or follow the road back to you car, at the Nek.

Admiring the view from the top

Many of the hikes and walks on Table Mountain, begin or end in the magnificent Kirstenbosch Gardens. Situated on the Eastern slopes of Table Mountain, it includes a cultivated garden and nature reserve.             

The garden displays a collection of Southern African plants, including many which are rare or endangered.  The Kirstenbosch Estate was owned by many private owners, the last of which was Cecil John Rhodes. When he died in 1902, the gardens were left to the nation, and in 1913, became a botanical garden dedicated to the cultivation and study of the indigenous plants of South Africa.

Whatever the day or the weather, Kirstenbosch seems a haven of peace. Its wide, sweeping lawns, hosting family picnics under the many huge trees. In the background, the green sides of Table Mountain, and the impressive castle rock sandwiched between Nursery and Skeleton Gorges.

  Not only a walkers paradise, Kirstenbosch also hosts several outdoor concerts during the summer months. What a day, walk in the indigenous forests, and on the mountain slopes, meet friends for a picnic, then relax on lawns, as the evening draws in, enjoying a concert in the open air.

During the first few months of the year, one of the greatest attractions of Table Mountain is the Red Disa Flower. Relatively rare, this bright flower is the floral emblem to the Western Cape, and always a pleasure to see.

The Disa is a South African Orchid, of which 131 species are present. The name Disa, originated in Swedish mythology!! This a result of being first described by a Swedish botanist in the 1700’s. The Disa of mythology, was a young woman, presented to the king wearing a fish net!

Disa uniflora, is the correct scientific name, for the more commonly named “red disa” or “Pride of Table Mountain” It is pollinated by the mountain pride butterfly, which is very strongly attracted to the colour red, and will be attracted to a red hiking bag, or socks, as much as to the flower.

Places to see the Disa on Table Mountain are in the perenial streams or permanently damp areas. Thus the Aquaduct, Window Gorge, and Myburghs Waterall offer some of the best viwing.

Red Disa in the Aquaduct. Table Mountain

An abundance of Red Disa's.

From sea level it can often appear that Table Mountain is only assailable by those skilled in mountain climbing. The sheer cliffs that tower over the city and Atlantic Ocean, seem dark and foreboding, with no evedence of foot paths, or routes for the casual walker and hiker.

However, looks can be deceiving. Anyone of moderate fitness, and even those with a fear of heights, can get to the top of Table Mountain under their own steam. 

From the city side, one of the most popular routes is Platteklip Gorge. To get to the start, you continue along Tafelberg Road, past the lower cable station, for about the km. The route is a steep zig zag set of steps, which reaches the top, through a narrow steep sided gorge, only 15 minutes from the upper cableway station. The views over the city, and Table Bay are truly magnificent, and well worth the effort.

A view of Platteklip gorge, from Devils Peak

Another route on the city side, is India Venster. This route involves some easy climbing, (although no ropes are required) and should only be attempted, when in the company of someone who is entirely familiar with the route, and by those with no fear of heights. The path leads to a point almost directly below the cable car, from where is follows Fountain ledge around the mountain above Camps Bay.

Above Camps Bay, there are several routes onto the Back Table, leading off the historic Pipe Track. The most popular of these is Kasteelspoort which begins with a relatively gentle climb as it cuts diagonally accross the mountain, before becoming steeper and getting into the ravine itself. Like Platteklip this route, although steep, has no exposure and should be assailable by anyone of moderate fitness. Other routes on this section of the mountain include, Woody Ravine, Corridor Ravine and Diagonal Path. Of varying levels of difficulty, all have unbeatable views of the Atlantic Ocean, The Twelve Apostles, Lions Head, etc.

The Kasteelspoort look out point

On the other side of the mountain, above Kirstenbosch, again, there are several routes to choose from. What makes the effort even more worthwhile, is the differences between the different areas of the Mountain. Although covering a relatively small area, Table Mountain creates her own weather patterns, and the vegetation and character, of the wetter False Bay side of the mountain is totally different from the drier Western seaboard. Thus whilst above the city and camps Bay, the paths have little shade, and the vegetation is relatively sparse. Above Kirstenbosch, you ascend through thick indigenous forests, and follow river beds, which continue to flow as a small trickle, right through the summer. The most popular routes here include, Skeleton Gorge and Nursery Ravine, or the easiest route of all. The concrete road which ascends the Back Table from Constantia Nek.

Skeleton Gorge

Whichever route you choose, once on top of Table Mountain, a new world awaits. Away from the cableway, you see few people, and feel yourself to be in a complete wilderness area. The streams are pure and clean. The fynbos thick and beautiful. The 5 reservoirs add beauty, and a visit to the small waterworks museum a wonderful addition to the day.

So to answer the title question. How do I climb Table Mountain? Easy. Find someone who knows the mountain well. Take plenty of water and be prepared for all weather conditions. Then lose yourself for a few hours, or even a whole day. A walk on Table Mountain offers not only excercise, but a while away from the stresses and strains of the modern world.

The Highest point on Table Mountain, is Maclears Beacon, which is found at a height of 1086m above sea level. (19m higher than the upper cable way station)

The plaque on Maclears Beacon

The beacon itself is 3m high, and was erected in 1865, by Sir Thomas Maclear. He built it as part of an experiment to measure the circumference of the earth. For his efforts towards this aim, Sir Thomas was awarded the Queens medal in 1869. He also has a crator on the moon, and the town of Maclear named after him.

A group of hikers celebrate reaching Maclears Beacon

To reach the highest point on the mountain, is the aim of many hikers, and there are several routes, that can be taken to this point. The easiest way is from the upper cableway. From here, a leisurely hours hike along the relatively flat top, will bring you to the cairn. For those feeling more energetic but still with limited time, the steep Platteklip gorge brings you to a point, 30 minutes from the beacon.

The best routes however, include a full days hike from anywhere on the Back Table. The most common route is from Kirstenbosch Gardens, and up Skeleton Gorge. This route is called Smuts Track, as it follows the regular footsteps, of Jan Smuts, one of South Africas great statesmen. But you could also ascend the mountain up Kasteelspoort and take the path through Echo Valley.

Whichever route you choose, the views from Maclears Beacon are magnificent.

The view at Maclears Beacon

Jonkershoek Nature Reserve, which is found near the town of Stellenbosch (+/- 1 hours drive from Cape Town) has some of the greatest walking in the Western Cape. Two of the best, are the Panorama Trail, and the Swartboskloof Trail. Both are about 17km in length and take a good to 6 to 8 hours to complete.

They both lead off the dirt road that circles the reserve, beginning only 500 metres apart. However they lead up opposite slopes of the mountains, through pristine fynbos. The Panorama trail, has magnificent views of the entire reserve, which includes the smaller Assegaaibos reserve, on the other the side of the mountains. The Swartboskloof trail leads to a viewpoint of the entire Helderberg Valley, from where you can see, Gordons Bay and the Strand, as well as Cape Town in the distance. 

Jonkershoek valley from The Panorama Trail

Both trails meet again, for the steep descent back to the dirt road, from where they began. The descent down a kloof called Kurktrekkersnek, is steep and unrelenting. Anyone with bad knees be warned, this is a tough way down!!

Overlooking Gordons Bay and The Strand

For several years the highlight of a walk in Jonkershoek was the pristine and beautiful vegetation. However following the devastationg fires of 2009, the reserve was closed to hikers for 8 months, in order to allow the fynbos to regenerate. Fire is a natural part of the ecology of fynbos, but lots of stamping boots, (no matter how carefull the hiker) does not assist regeneration. The new growth is now developed enough to allow the trails to open again, and what a treat, to be able to see the recovery of the fynbos, over the next year.

The steep Kurktrekkersnek descent

One of the most enjoyable hiking routes up the Camps Bay side of Table Mountain, is the Diagonal route. This is an easy scramble route, that begins 500m, before the Kasteelpoort turn off the Pipe Track. The beginning is a steep climb up a well marked track, towards Blind Gully. Then at 500m, you turn right and follow the contour around Porcupine Buttress. Then another climb up Porcupine ravine before another right turn at 650m, takes you around Jubilee buttress. A final steep climb and you emerge at the top, meeting with the path to “Valley of the Red Gods”

Diagonal Path

Whilst the stretches along the contours offer a chance for the lungs and legs to recover from the steep sections. They also offer an opportunity to savour the views. This route is on the main table side of the 12 apostles, thus the view takes in all the apostles, the Atlantic Ocean and Camps Bay.

View of Camps Bay from the top of Diagonal Path

View of the back table from the top of Diagonal path

From the top, you can walk to main table via Valley of the Red gods and Echo Valley. Or follow the 12 apostles and descend via any of the routes descending onto the Pipe Track.

Cecilia and Tokai plantations, found on the Eastern slopes of Table Mountain, became part of the Table Mountain National Park in April 2005. Prior to that date, they were managed by MTO forestry ltd, and had been harvested on a cyclic basis since the early 1900’s.

Once incorporated into the National Park, it was decided that the plantations would be returned to their natural state. Thus the pines and blue gums found in the plantations would be cut down in blocks, and the natural fynbos allowed to regenerate.

Such a decision met with a mixed reaction from the public. Both forests are popular recreational areas for a variety of activities such as hiking, mountain biking, horse riding, and dog walking. The main attraction of the trees to such activities is the provision of shade. Plus the jeep tracks that provide  access for the loggers, also offer good walking, cycling and riding routes.

A shady path in cecilia forest

  Since the decision was made, a number of areas have been felled and the natural vegetation has begun to regenerate. I can hardly remember what the route up to the back table from Constantia Nek was like when it was dominated by large trees. I’m afraid I have no strong feelings on the subject. I appreciate the need to return to the natural vegetaion, but also enjoyed the shade. I imagine in 10 years time, once all the trees have been removed, and most of the natural vegetaion returned, most people will forget what these areas were like for a brief period.

The path leading from Constantia Nek, to the Back Table.

The treacherous Cape of Storms, has claimed many boats. Some of the remains of which can be viewed, on various beach walks around the Cape.

Two of the most well known, are the Kapako, found midway between Noordhoek and Long Beach, and the Boss 400, found about 2 hours walk from Sandy Bay.

The Kapako, was stranded in 1900. The story goes, that whislt sailing from Cape Town, to New Zealand, the captain, mistook Chapmans Peak for Cape Point. Turning his boat East, to head for False Bay, he parked his boat deep in the sand of Noordhoek. It was spring high, when he landed on the beach, thus the boat was driven so high up, that the crew could step off the boat at low tide without getting their feet wet!! 

The Kapako shipwreck

The remains of this wreck, are buried in the sand. The ribs and boiler still clearly visible.

The hike to visit this wreck, takes about an hour each way. You can start either at Long Beach or at Noordhoek. Although in places walking in the sand is hard going, this is an easy walk, suitable for the whole family.

The Boss 400, is a much more modern wreck. This is a  crane barge, that was stranded in July 1994. The captain of the tug towing the barge, had radioed for assistance as he had realised his boat could not cope with the conditions. However, the tugs sent to assist did not arrive in time. The line attaching the Boss 400 to her tug, snapped, and the boat drifted on the rocks at Maori Bay. The 14 crew on board were airlifted to safety. There was an attempt to salvage the boat, however, it was considered too damaged to be worthwhile.

The remains of the Boss 400

Ironically, Maori Bay, is named after another ship that was lost there. The Maori was wrecked in 1909, and sadly many of the crew on board were lost. Her remains litter the seabed and are not visible to hikers to the bay. 

The walk to this site, is a good 2 hours each way. Unlike the walk to the Kapako, it involves some scrambling up steep inclines, and some crawling through the dense fynbos lining the route.

Both routes lack any shade or supply of fresh water, so should not be attempted without taking a good supply of water, and hat.